At La Scala, Tradition Reigns Supreme

For the Cusumano family, the long-time Commack residents who own and operate La Scala, their restaurant is home.

"It's a real family feeling here," said Daniella Cusumano, daughter of owners, Nunzio and Milena. "At any given moment we know three-quarters of the people in the dining room by name and have watched their kids grow… Singles and widows come in to chat, and parents leave their pre-teens to celebrate birthdays with their friends and know they will be looked after."

"Many of these people have known us forever, and we take great personal pride in taking care of their special events," Cusumano said.

Nunzio opened the restaurant in 1974 as a 21-year-old Italian immigrant and continues to operate it with the help of his wife and daughter today. His wife, Milena, encouraged him to expand the pizzeria in Waldbaum's shopping center into a restaurant by opening a formal dining room in the back. This formal dining room is now booked by La Scala's regulars who use it to host communion parties, christenings, bridal and baby showers, among other events.

According to Cusumano, the second generation to work at La Scala, their secret lies in good food and friendly, attentive service. Cusumano joined the family operation after graduating from The French Culinary Institute where she honed her cooking skills.

Mother and daughter are in the restaurant daily tending to customers, and Nunzio comes in once each week to make sure the homemade pizza dough and sauce are being prepared properly.

"Working here is more than a job for my family; it's a way of life," said Cusumano. "It's part of our family history and our lives and the restaurant is our home."

Cusamano has not changed his policies since the recession hit.

"We don't do that. We'd rather take home less money," said Cusumano, in reference to changing his ingredients.

The Cusumanos are sharing their cuisine with thousands of hungry Long Islanders each day beyond their Vanderbilt Motor Parkway location. In addition to La Scala, the Cusumanos and their partners own four other Long Island restaurants, including O Sole Mio (Stony Brook), Caffe Amici (Selden), Olio (Commack), and Buona Sera (Smithtown).